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Post by Jay2235 on Mar 22, 2005 15:04:50 GMT -5
This is my first attempt at modding/cooling. I purchased the following: - (2) 24" IDE Round Cables (Silver)
- (1) 18" Floppy Round Cable (Silver)
- (1) 4" Cold Cathode Blue Light
- (2) Thermaltake 92mm Smart Fan Blue LED
- (1) Thermaltake 120mm Smart Fan Blue LED
- (1) Thermaltake UFO #2 HSF Smart Fan
- (1) Nexus Fan Controller NXP-201-SL
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Post by Jay2235 on Mar 22, 2005 17:54:42 GMT -5
Cables were installed.
Next Step --> Fan Controller
One Question.. Can I take power from the PSU that says Bay 3?? It is the one that's also connected to my Radeon 9800XT
Please reply ASAP I need to get these fans installed, cuz when my system was busy I just hit temps of 70C CPU.. I think thats cuz my case was open and the shroud was off though.
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Post by Jay2235 on Mar 23, 2005 1:36:46 GMT -5
Mod Progress:
- (1) CPU HSF --> Installed
- (2) 92mm Rear Fans --> Installed
- (1) 120mm Front Fan --> Installed
- (2) IDE Cables --> Installed
- (1) Floppy Cable --> Installed
- (1) 4" Cold Cathode Blue Light --> Not Shipped Yet
Pics will be my next post. Will have them up, just about to upload the to ImageShack.
What is a good program for monitoring temps? I'm using EVEREST Home Edition right now and it seems ok.
Temps Before:
System --> 36C
CPU --> 56C
GPU --> 46C
Temps After:
System --> 25C
CPU --> 42-44C
GPU --> 35-39 C
Are these temps good for what I installed? How can I bring the GPU down more?
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Post by Jay2235 on Mar 23, 2005 2:27:19 GMT -5
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Post by TRow on Mar 23, 2005 2:33:27 GMT -5
For temp monitoring nothing beats MBMonitor. CPUFSB is a component of CPUCool that seems reduce lockups when trying to use them both.
Are those your load temps for before and after? Any fans jumpered? I would run the UFO all out, and adjust the R.Fans for Optimal Pull effect. Intake of Fresh, Cool Air is critical as well.
T.RoW
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Post by Jay2235 on Mar 23, 2005 2:45:39 GMT -5
For temp monitoring nothing beats MBMonitor. CPUFSB is a component of CPUCool that seems reduce lockups when trying to use them both. Are those your load temps for before and after? Any fans jumpered? I would run the UFO all out, and adjust the R.Fans for Optimal Pull effect. Intake of Fresh, Cool Air is critical as well. T.RoW Yea those are my temps for before and after. I'm just not sure if my comp is running "idle" enough to fully show good temps. All the fans are running into the Fan Controller.. Since UFO #2 only came with 2 sets of cables.. CPU HSF and 120mm are going straight 3 pin to 3 pin and the other 2 rear 92mm's are going 3 pin to 4 pin to 3 pin.. does the 4 pin combination decrease any fan performance?? I thought about looking at a PCI slot blowe r to help reduce my GPU temps.. would u recommend that or recommend a specific model? |
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Post by crusier on Mar 23, 2005 4:13:43 GMT -5
Check on the specs of those 'Smart Case Fans'. That usually means they are using a thermal sensor to controll the fan sppeds. If such is the case, your fan controller will merely limit there abillity to go to higher fan speeds when they sense an increase in the teperature sensed at the fans. Fan controllers usually work via regulating the voltage (12 vdc ) supplied to the fans. There is also a possibillity of those fans not spinning up ( dead still! ) if your fan controller is failing to allow sufficient voltage. With the fan controller set to lower speeds those smart case fans will not be able to increase the fan speeds as they should. You can just crank them to max and let the smart fans use what smarts they have. To test the response of the case fans you can use a hair dryer and waft the heated air over the fan intake sides ( I usually used about a 10-18 inch distance). You should get a definite increase in fan speed. Be carefull not to feed them too much warmth. If the fans have a tach output you can attach the ground and tach signals to the old connectors on the motherboard sa as to get a fan rpm readout. Mbm5 does that fairly well on the gen1/gen2.
To get full case fan controller operation you would have to bypass the smarts and/or replace the fans with dumb ones.
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Post by avsforsberg21 on Mar 23, 2005 11:22:16 GMT -5
Ahhhh....those pics bring back the memories when I did the first mod for the rig!!! You are on the right track and will notice a big difference when you are done. Good Luck.
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Post by Jay2235 on Mar 23, 2005 12:14:58 GMT -5
Check on the specs of those 'Smart Case Fans'. That usually means they are using a thermal sensor to controll the fan sppeds. If such is the case, your fan controller will merely limit there abillity to go to higher fan speeds when they sense an increase in the teperature sensed at the fans. Fan controllers usually work via regulating the voltage (12 vdc ) supplied to the fans. There is also a possibillity of those fans not spinning up ( dead still! ) if your fan controller is failing to allow sufficient voltage. With the fan controller set to lower speeds those smart case fans will not be able to increase the fan speeds as they should. You can just crank them to max and let the smart fans use what smarts they have. To test the response of the case fans you can use a hair dryer and waft the heated air over the fan intake sides ( I usually used about a 10-18 inch distance). You should get a definite increase in fan speed. Be carefull not to feed them too much warmth. If the fans have a tach output you can attach the ground and tach signals to the old connectors on the motherboard sa as to get a fan rpm readout. Mbm5 does that fairly well on the gen1/gen2. To get full case fan controller operation you would have to bypass the smarts and/or replace the fans with dumb ones. Im pretty sure if you remove the jumper on the fans, then they are set up for manual control. The fans do have a seperate Yellow Tach wire, but i'm not sure where to put that into. The 3 pin is being connected into a 4 pin which then turns into a 3 pin to go into the controller. When they split to a 4 pin, only the red and black are being connected to the 4 pin and the Yellow is seperate. Where would I plug that yellow cable in?? What about the fans that are hooked up through 3 pin to 3 pin. How do I get an RPM readout on those? |
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Post by crusier on Mar 23, 2005 17:27:16 GMT -5
Danged too many connection messages. This is about the 4th attempt to post a rather urgent message...but here I go again. HOLD OFF doign any connection of what you consider a tach connector (as it appears to be a fan power connector). Doing so would most likely end with something going poofers. You can dl the vantec cabling pdf at www.vantecusa.com/pdf/nxp201.pdf and compare it to what you have. A good close up of the 4 pin wiring harness and the way you have yours connected would be most helpful. |
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Post by Jay2235 on Mar 23, 2005 18:00:37 GMT -5
Danged too many connection messages. This is about the 4th attempt to post a rather urgent message...but here I go again. HOLD OFF doign any connection of what you consider a tach connector (as it appears to be a fan power connector). Doing so would most likely end with something going poofers. You can dl the vantec cabling pdf at www.vantecusa.com/pdf/nxp201.pdf and compare it to what you have. A good close up of the 4 pin wiring harness and the way you have yours connected would be most helpful. Not the greatest picture, but I tried to use one that I had already taken lol laziness.. (2) --> 3 pin attatching to the 3pin to 4pin connector The 4pin connector is bound in the wire tie (3) --> Yellow wire on its own with a head on it  |
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Post by crusier on Mar 23, 2005 18:35:39 GMT -5
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Post by Jay2235 on Mar 23, 2005 18:57:33 GMT -5
Yup, (2) Rear 92mm's and (1) Front 120mm |
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Post by crusier on Mar 26, 2005 12:20:20 GMT -5
Been busy stuffing things in the beast here and getting it reasonably back to where it was. From what I caught in the fan and controller docs, you need the jumper in for the smart fans to be set to run at full speed and then use the fan controller to set the speeds. If you set the speed so the voltage is below that required for the fans to start up you'll have disfunctional fans (no spin).
The issue with more needed detail on your cabling is that the more or less standard fan wiring is black ground, red +12vdc, and yellow tach but on the molex your red +5vdc, black ground, black ground, yellow +12vdc. It wouldn't be nice to get the molex +12vdc (yellow) connected to your fans tach (yellow).
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